Lake Titicaca and cheese, por favor

I'm in Puno, on the shores of Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world (at around 3800m) and tourism capital of the Universe.

Saturday morning Mo turned up at the hotel I was staying at slightly later than planned as he had a friend, Josh, who decided to come with us to Puno. There was a minor problem in that Josh was touring around Peru and didn't have a bike, so they had spent their morning hiring a little 400cc Honda. So around 11am two heavily loaded touring bikes and one tiny Honda with a rucksack left Cusco. At least they tried to - about forty metres down the road Josh pulled up and realised he had left his iPod at the bike hire place. While we were waiting for him, Mo and I were hassled by shoe shine people appalled at the state of our boots, and when we told them no thanks, they offered to clean the bikes instead.

Finally getting out of Cusco, the main road to Puno headed down a fairly straight and very picturesque valley. The lower peaks on either side were carpeted in a yellowy green tufted grass, and the effect was like brushed velvet. It reminded me a little of Colombia. The higher peaks were snow capped, and given that we were already at more than 3000m in the valley must have been very high indeed.

We stopped for lunch in a small town called Sicuani, a little under halfway to Puno. There was a little restaurant and they served set menus, so we had soup, followed by a small chicken leg in green sauce, with rice and a potato. Along with a litre of Coke between us the total bill came to about 13 Soles, less than 4 Dollars. There was a table full of cops next to us, and Josh cheerfully pointed out as we were eating that one of them had a sub machine gun laying across his lap, and the barrel was pointing right at me. That was the most uncomfortable meal I can remember in a while ;) Still, when the cops were done eating they went outside and stood by the bikes, I get the impression that they really don't want anything bad happening to tourists in this place.

Setting out again it was gone 2.30pm and I started to worry we would arrive in Puno after dark, but we picked the pace up for a bit until it started to rain. I was ok in my waterproof gear, but Mo and Josh needed to stop to put waterproofs and thicker gear on. Plus Josh had no gloves so I lent him my thicker spare set. Riding on the rain didn't last but it got very cold indeed. After a stop for petrol a strong side wind and some more rain set in, and the last 60Km or so into Puno was spent with my teeth chattering, and I seem to recall there were a few promises that I would have a good, hot shower as soon as I found an hotel ;)

We wound around Puno town centre for a short while before I decided to stay in a place on the main square. Mo and Josh said they would find a place elsewhere, so I said I'd see them later and ran for the shower ;)

I'd decided to go to Puno as it was the embarkation point for boat trips out onto Lake Titicaca, so the hotel were able to book me on a tour out to the floating reed islands of Uros and the island of Taquile the next morning, again at a silly time when all sane people should be sleeping. I was glad of the electric heater and thick duvets in my room, I'm really not used to the cold anymore.

I got up at 5.30am again and met a minibus which took a small bunch of us down to the harbour. We got on a boat and a guide rattled off what was going to happen in quickfire Spanish and English. Interestingly there was no safety brief, no "the fire extinguishers are here, lifejackets are there" and no liability waiver to sign as seems to be the norm now. About twenty minutes out from Puno were the islands of Uros. These islands were constructed entirely of reeds and float on the lake. They are home to the Aymara indians, who apparently suffer terrible rheumatism and don't age much over 60, a combination of the humidity and walking around on a surface that feels a little like a mattress.

There are many dozens of islands, and each visiting boat is assigned to an island so all the islanders get their fair share of tourist cash. The island we visited was called Chumi, and was home to ten families. The island president gave a welcome talk in Spanish, which is a second language to these people, and it was translated into English by our guide. Then the islanders sang a song and got out the gift selection. We were given fifteen minutes to look around the island, which was enough time to lap it four or five times ;) Most people bought something, and then were offered rides in the community reed boat, for a fee. I noticed some solar panels on the island, which looked about as out of place as a tattoo parlour in a convent. These were apparently donated by the Peruvian government as lighting cooking fires on what is effectively a big floating bonfire often resulted in disaster. Now the Aymara have electricity, and have TV, radio etc too.



We bade farewell to the islanders after another cheesy song and made a brief stop at the main island to pick up a Dutch couple that had stayed the night there. I thought back to having the heater in my room on the previous evening and shuddered at the idea of a reed hut. It was two and a half hours by boat to the island of Taquile and we arrived in time for lunch, which was a set up affair with a local family. Again there was singing and dancing this time too. The indians on Taquile are known for their weaving and there were souvenirs all over the place. The island was pretty but after a few minutes I'd seen enough and of course had to wait around for the tour group, and the boat to come and pick us up. Then it was three hours back to Puno. All in all I think the most touristy thing I have ever done in my life. It was interesting, but I am looking forward to getting somewhere and being able to stop without someone immediately trying to sell me something.

Due to time pressures I have made the decision not to go into Bolivia. I will be heading for Chile tomorrow instead. I will miss Peru, but will welcome some peace and quiet ;)

Frase.